Whisky vs Wine, Do You Know The Differences?

At face value, the differences between whisky and wine may seem obvious but it's not as straightforward as you might think. If you are a wine aficionado, don't expect to be able to simply transfer that knowledge to whisky and vice-versa. Some of the differences if ignored, could be very costly, especially if you are a collector.

Aging

Whisky ages in the barrel or cask and ceases to age once bottled. Wine, on the other hand, continues to age in the bottle. Don't assume that holding onto a 10-year-old bottle of whisky for 10 years will turn it into a 20-year-old bottle of whisky or that it will taste any different.

Storage

Wine (if sealed with a cork) should be stored laying down so that the cork does not dry out. Whisky corks are different to wine corks in both construction and intended use. Wine corks are softer, absorb liquid and once removed, expand and are not put back in the bottle. Whisky cork stoppers are harder, often sealed and are intended to be removed and replaced multiple times. Whisky is also much higher in alcohol by volume (ABV) than wine. The average wine is about 12% ABV whereas whisky is 40% ABV or higher. A spirit of such a high ABV will degrade the cork over time, therefore whisky must be stored upright so that there is no contact between the spirit and the cork stopper. If you store whisky for extended periods lying down, it is likely the cork will break down and contaminate the whisky.

Additionally, whisky is more robust when it comes to temperature changes than wine so you do not need to store your whisky in a temperature controlled environment like a wine fridge or cellar. You may want to limit exposure to direct sunlight and high humidity, however, because fading or moisture damage to a whisky bottle's label will affect its resale value for collectors.

Vintage

Whisky has no vintage in the same sense as wine. You may see a year printed on a whisky bottle but it is not common. Wine is greatly affected by seasonal changes at the winery where the fruit is grown. Whisky is not affected in the same way and most distilleries go to great pains to ensure consistency across every production run. There are some exceptions and declared whisky batches are perhaps the closest comparison to a wine vintage. If a whisky has been bottled from a single barrel or cask, there will likely be some differences from barrel to barrel. This will be more often the case with smaller craft distilleries rather than larger mass producing distilleries.

Food Pairing

There is no doubt that wine is more commonly paired with food and this is a practice that has been going on for hundreds of years. But as whisky has become more popular, so has pairing particular whiskies with certain food. If pairing red wine with red meat and white wine with white meat is an accepted simplification of wine/food pairing, the following should suffice for whisky. Pair Scotch style whiskies with rich food such as heavy cheeses, sausages or fatty meats like rare waygu steak. Pair sweeter American whiskey like Bourbon with sweeter dishes such as any based on chocolate, ice cream, fruit, sweet vegetables, light cheeses or anything caramelised. 

Wine may be easier to pair with food, but whisky taken neat (or however you prefer) is a great digestif following a meal. If you want to have whisky prior to a meal as an aperitif, then best to stick to light whiskies and mix it with either soda water or in a cocktail of your choice to bring down the ABV. I would avoid drinking peated or smoky whisky prior to an expensive meal as this is likely to coat your mouth and may even annoy other nearby diners if they are particularly sensitive to the peated whisky aromas, which are quite volatile.

Shelf Life

Different wines have generally accepted time frames when they should be consumed once opened. White wine lasts 1-2 days, red wine 1-2 weeks and fortified wine 1-2 months once opened. Whisky, on the other hand, has a near infinite shelf life, even when opened. Some people may claim the taste of a whisky changes over time once opened and that may be the case, but for the majority of people, the changes will be indistinguishable. What's important to note is that whisky will not go off, so you do not need to throw out your whisky if it has been open for a few years. But I would question whether you should really drink Grandma's bottle of port that has been open since Christmas five years ago.

Belgrove Peated Rye Impressions

REVISITED 3rd April 2017 

What is it? 

Distillery: Belgrove, Tasmania, Australia

Name: Peated Rye Whisky

Make: Tasmania Single-Barrel Peated 100% Rye Whisky

Extra Info: Belgrove sets a benchmark for sustainable craft distilling. Founder Peter Bignell grows his own rye, made his own copper still from scratch, collects rainwater from the roofs of his sheds, heats it with biodiesel that he makes himself from waste oil (which also powers his tractors, forklift and truck), feeds his livestock used whisky mash and recycles waste water for irrigation. Lastly, the whisky is aged on site and hand bottled by Peter. How's that for environmentally responsible farming and Ozzy ingenuity?

ABC Australia Radio Interview (7:20)

Listen to Peter Bignell talk to ABC Rural's Nick Bosley-Pask about his Belgrove Distillery. LINK

Why did I buy it?

It has been two years since the last Belgrove Peated Rye was bottled (I know this because Peter said the file he uses to print the label himself, was last opened on his computer two years ago). I had heard good things about the Peated Rye but had never been able to find a bottle until now. It is aged for a little over two years in a single 100L ex-Overeem malt whisky cask and peated with locally sourced, tea tree swamp peat from Waterhouse on the north-east Tasmanian coast. Peter pops up from time to time at local markets, but you can always buy directly from the Belgrove website if you cannot make it to Tasmania.

What did I think of it?

Presentation: The small square-profile 500ml bottles with home printed and hand written labels have a delightful craft market look to them and the black wax seal and stamp add an air of elegance. Unfortunately, the wax seal hides a plastic screwtop underneath, rather than a cork stopper, but it is of little concern to most.

Appearance: Naturally light Amber in colour, non-chill filtered and bottled at 52.3% ABV.

Aroma: Candied smoke. Notes of sweet mints and vanilla rise above a restrained smoke. Inhaling at varying distances from the glass help isolate each aroma since it doesn't belch smoke as soon as you pour, like some of the peatier Islay malts. Clove spice presents momentarily, encouraging me to dig for more aromas with my nose in and out of the glass like one of those drinking bird toys. (I think my initial notes were just about bang on the money. I love nosing this whisky, it has so may layers yet very little alcohol burn for such as high ABV.)

Flavour: It is not until you take your first sip, that this whisky fully comes alive. The mouthfeel is deliciously oily and full bodied, urging you to delay swallowing with flavours that seem to develop endlessly. The smoke that appeared a little coy on the nose, blasts forward evoking memories of crunching singed clumps of grass underfoot while walking through a freshly burnt out section of Australian bush. Some fruity sweetness and powdered ash settle on the tongue. Draw in some air to bring out new intense aromas of smouldering bark, rising into your sinus cavity from the gently warming liquid in your mouth. Spices tingle on your taste buds as the whisky warms to body temperature, but it never reaches the pins & needles intensity of some other high-alcohol whiskies. It is smooth, measured and balanced. (I think the cooling menthol comes in a little earlier than the finish and perhaps presents as peppermint.)

Finish: Just when I thought it had given all it had to give, the Belgrove Peated Rye continues to deliver. A smooth, medium to long finish of cooling menthol and fading spice with one last parting puff of smoke leaving behind a slightly bitter aftertaste. What a whisky! (Yep, simply divine. One of my favourites.)

Would I buy it again?

Yes, $200 AUD for 500ml isn't cheap, but it is probably at the lower end of typical Tasmanian craft whisky prices and is fully justified considering the locally sourced ingredients and personal care that goes into every bottle; not to mention the very limited supply of around 150 bottles. The Belgrove Peated Rye is a delicious and truly unique 100% Tasmanian whisky from an innovative sustainable craft distillery and a must try for any peated whisky fan or fan of Australian whisky in general. (I'm sure there is none left by now, but I will be one of the first in line to secure a bottle of the next batch.)

Disclaimer: I do not claim to have the nose and palate of a Master Sommelier, however, I am working to train my senses to better identify whisky aromas and flavours. Consider all my whisky 'Impressions' to be a work in progress and I hope to come back to each of them in the future to see if I notice anything different. Most importantly, I'm not just throwing around random aromas, flavours and adjectives for the hell of it; I am trying really hard to critically describe each whisky I taste - WhiskyDad.

Westland American Oak Impressions

What is it? 

Distillery: Westland, Seattle, USA

Name: American Oak

Make: American Single Malt Whiskey

Extra Info: Westland whiskey is made with five different malts: Washington Select Pale Malt, Munich Malt, Extra Special Malt, Pale Chocolate Malt and Brown Malt. The peated expression is made with six malts since an additional peated malt from Scotland is used to introduce the smoky character.

Why did I buy it?

Westland whiskey had been on my radar for a while because they produce an American whiskey but not a bourbon or rye. I was lucky enough to attend a local tasting event and got to try the three standard Westland expressions and walked away with a bottle of the American Oak.

What did I think of it?

Presentation: I absolutely love the Westland label; a diamond shape that mirrors the distillery logo set in front of the four corners of a rectangle displaying map imagery with topographical lines that mimic the grain of milled wood. I also love the colour scheme and the heavy based bottle. I would go as far as saying it is one of my favourite designs to date. One thing I was disappointed with however was the inclusion of a plastic screw-top lid rather than a cork stopper. I know it may seem odd, but I enjoy hearing the pop of a cork when I open my whisky and feel a screw-top cheapens the product. Bottled at 46% ABV.

Appearance: Non-chill filtered, dark gold in colour, with no additional colouring added; no mean feat considering it has only been aged for two and a half years. 

Aroma: Quite fragrant, somewhat floral, citrus notes and coffee beans.

Flavour: Velvety mouthfeel, a little spice, cherries.

Finish: Short, some lingering spice and mild warming.

Would I buy it again?

No, nor would I buy the Peated or Sherry Matured expressions either. That is not to say that Westland is onto something special here, it is just a little too young in its current form. Age the same whiskey for a little longer and I think there is great potential once the wood has had more time to interact with the spirit. That said, the only real giveaway to the whiskey's young age is the very short and mild finish. The aromas and flavours are there, but in my opinion, this isn't as good as the Westland spirit could be. A decent whiskey that should mature into a great whiskey. Keep an eye on Westland.

Disclaimer: I do not claim to have the nose and palate of a Master Sommelier, however, I am working to train my senses to better identify whisky aromas and flavours. Consider all my whisky 'Impressions' to be a work in progress and I hope to come back to each of them in the future to see if I notice anything different. Most importantly, I'm not just throwing around random aromas, flavours and adjectives for the hell of it; I am trying really hard to critically describe each whisky I taste - WhiskyDad.

Interview with Anne Gigney

Welcome Anne, please introduce yourself and your role in the Tasmanian Whisky Academy?

Thanks, Shane. I’m the Director of the Tasmanian Whisky Company and primary controller of traffic on course day. I am also the grunt behind the operation, so if something needs doing I better get in and get my hands dirty.

How did the Tasmanian Whisky Academy begin and is it based on any established model?

A couple of years ago the company I was working for was doing some agriculture work on the lovely Redlands Estate where the original Redlands Distillery was based. At the time we got talking to distiller Dean Jackson and our mate Bill Lark and the conversation of how you learn to be a distiller came up.

At the time, in early 2013, there wasn’t much around if you wanted to learn about distilling. The guys here in Tas had been learning on the job, reading up when they wanted to know something or asking other distillers (primarily Bill Lark) if there was something a little bit tricky.

We thought there had to be an easier way for distillers and people who wanted to work in the industry to gain those skills and knowledge; the idea of the Academy was born.

From there, my partner Chris who is passionate about training that works, and I started looking around at ways we could help create a pathway for people interested in getting into the industry and those looking to increase their skills and knowledge in distilling.

We tested the idea with Bill Lark and spoke with Patrick Maguire (Sullivans) to see what they thought and with a positive “yep, reckon it’s a goer” we took off.

The model is loosely based on the Irish Whisky Academy and is based on the premise of connection. Connection to experts. Connection to Tasmanian distilleries. Connecting people who love whisky, with people who know about it. We wanted to create an amazing Tassie experience that also gave students full exposure to the process of whisky making – from idea to market. That course has become the Tasmanian Introduction to Distilling and was first run in November 2016.

Our next goal is to be able to create a better learning pathway for the industry itself so that the people in the industry who have the skills are recognised for these and if they want to learn new skills, there is an avenue for this.

What does the Tasmanian Whisky Academy hope to bring to the Tasmanian and Australian whisky industry?

It would be great to think Tasmania, and by default Australia, can gain a global reputation not just for our amazing product but for our people as well.

In short, we’d like to think that when aspiring distillers from other parts of the world look at honing their craft, that Australia becomes a desirable place for that learning to occur. If we can play a role in progressing that reputation it would be fantastic.

What services, training and support does the Tasmanian Whisky Academy provide and to whom is it available?

Currently, the Academy offers the Tasmanian Introduction to Distilling course. This 1-day course is targeted to people interested in getting into the industry, those who love whisky or want to write about it and anyone trying to work out if distilling or brewing is what they want to do with their career.

We’ve also become a bit of an unofficial go to place for info about Tassie whisky and we’ve created the Tasmanian distilleries map with the view that if people are thinking of coming to Tassie, that they might come and do the Intro course, then stay a while and check out distilleries and tours around the state. We’re super happy to talk to anyone about whisky and what roads they should travel while they’re here.

We also have a few other things up our sleeve for 2017 and we’ll be sharing those soon.

So, if I wanted to start my own distillery, what unique opportunities could the Tasmanian Whisky Academy provide me?

The most relevant thing is the end to end overview. We’ve priced the Intro to Distilling so that if you are thinking about entering the industry, or you’re thinking about opening a distillery, the course will give you enough info that you can then make informed decisions about where to go next. It’s also an awesome fun day.

There are some other avenues around that may help, but the Intro is set out as a structured course, designed to be a great experience and provide a bit of business, info about barley, mashing, fermenting, distilling, bottling and market with pointers that help people on their journey.

The best part is getting out there amongst it at Moo Brew and see the grain and the mashing and Sullivans Cove Distillery to go through the process from receiving wash to bottling. Our mate Rex from Nonesuch Distillery also got to show our students a bit about gin, so that is a pretty cool too.

For people coming from interstate, we’d like to think we can offer them a little part of Tassie that they might otherwise not get to see. And while they’re here look after them, introduce them to people who might be able to help and create a worthwhile connection to the Tassie industry.

What work is being done to provide official accreditation and recognition for Tasmanian Whisky Academy courses and qualifications?

This is still being discussed but we’d like to think that in the future Tassie will be leading a distillers course that will help the industry. But that’s still a ways off and for now, part of the interest is that anyone can enter the industry and be trained on the job.

What was the local whisky industry’s reaction to the Tasmanian Whisky Academy?

Largely the reaction to The Academy has been positive and we’ve had some tremendous supporters, especially Bill Lark and Patrick Maguire who helped us fine tune the idea in the early days, and Rex at Nonesuch who has opened his doors to our students.

Our hope is that we will be able to run our Intro to Distilling in other parts of the state as well and we’ve had quite a few discussions with distillers around the state who are interested in being part of the fun. That will be great for students who want to experience diversity within the distilleries.

Does the Tasmanian Whisky Academy have any partners and if so, who are they and what is their involvement?

Our main partners are Moo Brew and Sullivans Cove who have provided the venue and the knowledge to ensure the students have the most amazing experience possible. These two venues, with support from Dave Magill and Pat Maguire are great Tassie icons and we’re proud and delighted they have been able to join us.

Hadley’s Orient Hotel provide a home for The Academy in Hobart and is a tremendous venue to return to for a whisky or gin at the end of the day. Our host Todd from Destination Cellars brings colour to the story of whisky and Rex at Nonesuch has been a great support offering a complete picture of how distilling can be done. We’ve a heap of other friends and supporters for our journey, the least of which is the Tassie industry as a whole – they are the reason people head down south and for that – 25 thank yous.

Pat Maguire (Sullivans Cove), Dave Magill (Moo Brew) and Anne Gigney (TWA)

What is the vision for the future of the Tasmanian Whisky Academy?

We’d just like to see more people heading south to learn about whisky. Tassie is really where it’s at. You can’t head more that 50kms from any major town in Tassie before stumbling over a distillery. We’d like more people to make our state a destination. Come and do a course, visit a distillery, take a tour and also experience the beer, cider and food that make Tassie great. And yeah, we’d like to play a role in making all that possible.

Are there any similar organisations to the Tasmanian Whisky Academy in other states and could there be an Australian Whisky Academy one day?

We think we’re pretty unique. There are a number of distilleries around Australia delivering unique and amazing whisky experiences but no single place to come for a complete education experience.

An Australian Academy? Not sure! But we think it possible the Tasmanian Whisky Academy will be offering Introduction to Distilling and more formal training to the industry in other parts of Australia in the future.

Thank you very much for your time, Anne. How can anyone interested in the Tasmanian Whisky Academy contact you?

The best place to head is the website www.whiskyacademy.com.au or Facebook www.facebook.com/whiskyacademytasmania.

The website has the links to the booking page for the Introduction to Distilling course and more information about us.

We’re offering two Summer courses in 2017 – 19 January and 16 February for people who are interested. $645 all inclusive with spots filling fast for January.

More Info

For more details on the Introduction to Distilling course, see my three-part feature here:

Part One, Part Two and Part Three.

Tasmanian Whisky Academy Intro to Distilling – Part Three

After leaving Moo Brew Brewery, the Intro to Distilling course enjoyed a lunch of beautiful local Tasmanian produce at Frogmore Creek Winery in the Coal River Valley. Just beyond the manicured gardens and fields of grapes sits an unassuming tin shed; many a tourist would sip their wine admiring the view without realising the tin shed is where Bill Lark’s famous award-winning Lark whisky is aged.

It was only a short trip from Frogmore Creek to the Cambridge-based Sullivans Cove Distillery. We were greeted at the distillery by Sullivans Cove Head Distillery, Pat Maguire, who wasted no time showing us where the whisky wash (from either Moo Brew or Cascade breweries in Sullivans Cove’s case) is pumped into the distillery. Sullivans Cove is set up to receive 12,000L of whisky wash at a time, although the distillery only operates a single 2,400L pot still. The whisky wash is transferred to a storage tank on the outside of the distillery to be pumped, when required, to the pot still inside. The distillery is open to the public for tours and cellar door sales throughout the business week and has a viewing platform overlooking the copper pot still, tucked away in a corner of the bond store. From 1996 – 2003, Sullivans Cove distillery occupied the old gas works site in Hobart and employed two people; the distillery was then sold and moved to Cambridge in 2004 where it now employs 12 people.

The distilling setup at Sullivans cove consists of a single 2,400L French designed (originally for brandy distillation) copper pot still, connected to a condenser via a lyne arm with a swan’s neck kink at the still end and six spirit collection tanks. The first step in the distilling process is to create 'low wine', which is what you are left with after the wash run or initial pass through the still. Whisky wash is pumped into the pot still from the wash receiving tank outside. Since Sullivans Cove start with 12,000L of whisky wash and only have a 2,400L still, they need to do five wash runs to process all the whisky wash. The still is filled and heated to 81˚C causing the alcohol to boil off but leaving most of the water behind. The vapour rises up the still and into the lyne arm where it partially condenses. So much of the distilling equipment is made of copper because copper chemically reacts with the condensing vapour. This property of copper was a serendipitous discovery, much like the effects of ageing spirit in wooden barrels. The copper reacts with sulphur in the vapour to form copper sulphate and draws unpleasant compounds and oils out of the spirit.

Next the spirit reaches the vertical column shaped condenser, where as the name suggests, the vapour is cooled and condensed into a liquid. The low wine is collected in the various storage tanks until all the whisky wash has gone through the pot still. At this point, the low wine is at about 25% ABV and is ready for the first of two spirit runs which will eventually become Sullivans Cove’s double-distilled newmake spirit. After the first spirit run, the spirit is transfer back into the still and the process begins again. This time the liquid that leaves the condenser is of a much higher alcohol concentration (around 71% ABV) and the copper strips away more unwanted compounds.

It is not a simple matter of just collecting all the liquid that comes out of the condenser however; more than one type of alcohol is distilled and not all alcohol is safe to consume. The first liquid distilled in a spirit run is mostly methanol, a strong smelling and poisonous alcohol. The distiller must separate this and other unwanted components in order to capture the ‘heart’ of the spirit run which is mostly ethanol. To achieve this, the distilled spirit is diverted at the beginning and end of each spirit run into a separate storage tank. The point when the spirit is diverted is called a cut and the first portion of cut spirit the ‘foreshots’ and the last portion the ‘faints’. The ‘fores & faints’ are not wasted, but rather added to the next spirit run since they still contain a portion of usable alcohol. Cutting the spirit can be an automated process or done manually as is the case at Sullivans Cove. You can smell, taste and sometimes see when the spirit run changes from mostly methanol to ethanol and a distiller uses all these indicators and their own experience to decide when to cut the spirit.

During those two or more years, the spirit and wood undergo an almost magical metamorphosis where the wood releases organic chemical compounds into the spirit that introduce new colour, flavours and aromas. 

The spirit that is produced from the distillation process is not yet whisky. In order to be legally labelled as Whisky, the freshly distilled newmake, must be aged in wooden barrels for a minimum of two years (in Tasmania) or three years (in Scotland). During those two or more years, the spirit and wood undergo an almost magical metamorphosis where the wood releases organic chemical compounds into the spirit that introduce new colour, flavours and aromas. Sullivans Cove do not print age statements on their bottles, but they do list the distillation and bottling dates so you can work out the age of the whisky for yourself; often around 10 years which makes it some of the oldest Tasmanian whisky available.

The final process is to bottle the aged whisky, but once again it is not as simple as syphoning the whisky straight from the barrel and into a bottle. The compounds released by the wood that impart so much flavour and aromas to the whisky have varying solubility depending on alcohol concentration and temperature. This means, that they will tend to solidify and clump together over time. There is nothing wrong with this other than the cosmetic effect of having a cloudy whisky or seeing sediment in the bottom of your bottle. For this reason, most whisky bottled under 46% ABV has undergone some form of filtration. Chill-filtration is a fast, industrialised process where the whisky is chilled to force the wood compounds to solidify so they can be removed from the whisky. This will produce the clearest whisky and is common where whisky is produced on a massive scale. The other method is called flocking. Flock is the name given to the solidified wood compounds that accumulate over time and Sullivans Cove employ the flocking method since they bottle their whisky at 40% ABV and in relatively small quantities; flocking requires a lot of time and space.

The barrelled whisky is poured into plastic containers and filtered water is added to bring the alcohol concentration down to a bottling level of 40% ABV. The diluted whisky is then left to sit for months at a time. As the whisky rests, the heaviest and least soluble wood compounds clump together and settle on the bottom of the containers. The whisky above the flock, is drawn off and placed into another plastic container so that the process can be repeated and the whisky drawn off again. I have been told that the whisky flock is quite delicious and is highly sought after for culinary purposes. Once the distiller is happy with the clarity of the whisky, it is bottled, labelled and ready for sale.

Having followed the whisky making process from malt to bottle, the Intro to Distilling course returned to Hobart. A lucky few who did not have to dash away, were met at Hadley’s Orient Hotel by none other than Bill and Lyn Lark and shared a dram or two with the first-family of Tasmania Whisky.

This concludes the three-part feature on the Introduction to Distilling Course but check back soon for an interview with Anne Gigney, Director of the Tasmanian Whisky Academy.

Destination Cellars Whisky Tasting Events - Nov 2016

Last month I attended the final two Destination Cellars whisky tasting events for the year.

Westland American Single Malts, Benromach Organic & Port Askaig 100 Proof

Our host for the first evening was Ian McKinlay, Managing Director of Alba Whisky. Ian began with a product that demonstrates some of the things I love about whisky, it has an interesting story and takes considerable effort to produce. When the Benromach Organic was launched in 2006, it was the first single malt whisky in the world to be certified organic. Gaining official organic certification is no easy task and in the case of Benromach, the Speyside distillery had to meet the requirements of the UK Soil Association. Certifying the ingredients and distilling process was relatively straight forward but when the auditors asked what happens after the spirit is distilled, they were not too pleased with the answer. As is normal practice, the spirit would be aged in used barrels, previously filled with either (non-organically certified) bourbon or sherry and constructed from oak of uncertified origin. To overcome this, Benromach had to use virgin (unused) American oak barrels, made of timber sourced from a free-growth forest in Missouri, USA. The result I am glad to say, was worth the effort. The Benromach Organic was a pale amber in colour, having been aged for five years in the custom-made sustainable virgin oak barrels. The nose was delightfully fresh and creamy with a hint of spice. It was smooth on the palate and tasted of sweet malt and pepper. The finish was medium length with fading spices. I really enjoyed this one.

Next up was three American single malt whiskies from the Seattle-based Westland Distillery in the north-west corner of the USA. First up was the flagship Westland American Oak. I actually purchased a bottle of this whiskey, so I will save the notes for my full impressions. Next was the Westland Sherry Wood single malt, aged only 2.5 years in ex-sherry casks. All three Westland single malts are aged 2.5 years and would not be able to be called ‘Whisky’ if produced in Scotland, which has a minimum age requirement of 3 years. But many factors contribute to how quickly whisky matures such as barrel size, average temperature, humidity, fluctuations in barometric pressure and agitation. The Westland distillery can be found in Seattle, however, their bond store (where the barrels of whisky are taken to age) is located in the port city of Hoquiam, some 100km to the south-west. Hoquiam has lower average temperatures to Seattle, but less snowfall and twice the annual rain levels.

The Westland Sherry Wood single malt was dark gold in colour, belying its young age. The nose was subtle and hard for me to pick up much with the small sample I had. The palate was pleasant but unremarkable, once again hindered by only having a small sample; I would have liked to have spent some more time with this one. The finish was what really gave away the whisky’s age, it was very short, with slight spices on the tongue fading away quickly once swallowed.

Last from Westland was their peated expression. The Westland Peated single malt poured light golden straw in colour, much lighter than the Sherry Wood. The nose was only slightly smoky, which given its age suggest it was not peated a great deal. Westland uses a combination of five different malts and only one of those is peated for this expression with peat sourced from Inverness, Scotland. There are plans in place to use locally sourced peat in the future. On tasting it was difficult to identify any dominant flavours and like the Sherry Wood, the finish was quite short.

The final whisky for tasting on the night was the Port Askaig 100 Proof. Port Askaig is made with undisclosed Islay single malts and the 100 Proof expression is a NAS (no age statement) whisky, bottled at 57.1% ABV. The colour was extremely pale, close to clear in fact, meaning it was either very young and/or aged in very lightly charred or seasoned casks. The nose was smoky but there was something else there that smelt quite strange and I could not put my finger on it with the single sample. The whisky had a nice oily mouthfeel with a rush of spices. The finish lingered for a medium length and consisted of fading spice. A good, if not a little odd, peated single malt. Thanks to Ian McKinlay and his lovely wife Noreen for a very enjoyable evening.

Hyde Irish Whiskey

The last Destination Cellars tasting event for the year was hosted by Scott Farrow of Wonderland Drinks and covered five Irish whiskies from the Hyde portfolio. Hyde do not distill their own spirit (sourced from the Cooley Distillery) but rather operate as an Independent Bottler under their own label. Hyde age the spirit in first fill ex-bourbon casks before finishing the whiskey in either Oloroso sherry, dark Caribbean rum or Burgundy red wine casks in County Cork, Ireland. All Hyde whiskies are bottled at 46% ABV and are non-chill filtered.

The first whiskey of the evening was the Hyde No.5 The Aras Cask Irish Whiskey. This is a single grain Irish whiskey that has been matured for 6 years and finished in Burgundy red wine casks. It was light gold in colour and I found it to have a fresh, somewhat powdery nose that released sweet berry fruit notes with the addition of water. On tasting, it was light and sweet with flavours of grapes and berries. There was little to no spice or heat. The finish was short but sweet.

Next was the first of two dark Caribbean Rum finished whiskies. The Hyde No.4 President’s Cask Irish Whiskey is a single malt aged for 6 Years before being finished in ex-rum casks. Light gold in appearance, like the Hyde No.5, the whiskey smelt of sponge cake and banana bread, with notes of sweet raisins and sultanas. It tasted sweet with obvious rum flavours and a peppery spice building as it warmed in the mouth. The finish was medium length with fading spice concentrating on the end of the tongue.

The third whiskey for the evening was another single grain whiskey, this time, Hyde No.3 The Aras Cask Irish Whiskey which is aged for 6 years exclusively in ex-bourbon casks. The No.3 had a golden colour, slightly darker than the first two whiskies. The nose was subtle with hints of vanilla and nuts. The taste was anything but subtle however, with strong bourbon flavours, a result of using corn to make the spirit and maturing it in first fill ex-bourbon casks. As expected, it tasted sweet but with little spice. The addition of water cuts the spiciness ever further. The finish was medium length.

The fourth whiskey from Hyde was a special offering since it is now sold-out worldwide. The Hyde No.2 President’s Cask Irish Whiskey is finished in dark Caribbean rum casks like the No.4, but is aged for 10 years rather than six. This was my favourite Hyde whiskey on the night, purely because it was so different to any whisky I had tried before. Similar in colour to the No.3, the nose was of sweet tropical fruits, mostly pineapple. On tasting, it was lovely and smooth with hints of citrus and chocolate. The finish was medium to long in length with lingering spices tingling the tongue. Quite unique although almost impossible to find now.

The last Irish whiskey on offer was the Hyde No.1 President’s Cask Irish Whisky, aged for 10 years and finished in ex-Oloroso sherry casks. Golden in colour like the No.3 and No.2, the nose was subtle with hints of citrus, dried fruits and chocolate. On tasting is was smooth with some of the dried fruits coming through with some sweet caramel. The finish was medium to long length with an initial burst of spice before fading.

Heartwood Dare to be Different

The last whisky on the night was a special thank you from Todd Morrison of Destination Cellars. Having convinced a friend of mine to buy his first bottle of the now sold-out Heartwood Dare to be Different, Todd saved his only other bottle to share with us on the night. Bottled at a whopping 65.5% ABV, the Dare to be Different is not for the faint-hearted but for the seasoned whisky drinker, it is amazing! This was only the second time I had tasted this expression and I wish I had bought that other bottle for myself. Heartwood is a Tasmanian independent bottler famous for very high ABV cask strength and very limited release bottlings. Aged in Heartwood owner Tim Duckett’s Kingston bond store with a few extra days ‘cooking’ in the hot room, Dare to be Different stretched to only 330 bottles and sold out very quickly. This is a huge whisky, bottled from a single ex-Oloroso sherry cask filled with peated spirit from Tasmania’s iconic Lark Distillery. Dark amber in colour, the nose was rich and creamy with notes of dried fruits, raisins, sultanas and apricot. It has a sumptuous, thick and oily mouthfeel, flooded with spiced Christmas cake and dark chocolate flavours. The finish is long with slowly fading spices concentrated along the centre of the tongue. Alas, I only got a single pour of this beauty but I do have a full bottle of Heartwood We are Cousins at home.

Thanks to Ian, Scott and Todd for another pair of great whisky tasting evenings. If you are ever in Hobart, be sure to track down Destination Cellars and have a chat to Todd while admiring his impressive whisky selection on offer.

Springbank 15 Year Old Impressions

What is it? 

Distillery: Springbank, Campbeltown, Scotland

Name: Springbank 15 Year Old

Make: Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Extra Info: In 1970, Springbank bottled a 50 Year Old single malt whisky. Distilled in 1919, only 24 bottles were made and in 2013, the last of these was sold by the distillery to a Chinese whisky collector for an astonishing £50,000.

Why did I buy it?

Buying the Springbank 15 Year Old single malt gave me an opportunity to compare it to the younger Springbank 10 and 12 Year Old expressions. The Springbank 15 Year Old is priced similarly to the 12 Year Old Cask Strength but there is still an 18 and a 21 Year Old expression in the current standard Springbank range that are considerably more expensive.

What did I think of it?

Presentation: Maintaining the common design language of the Springbank 10 Year Old and Springbank 12 Year Old Cask Strength this time with a green Springbank logo and lettering denoting the expression as aged 15 years. Bottled at 47% ABV.

Appearance: All Springbank whisky is bottled non-chill filtered and without additional colouring. You can see from the image above that the 15 Year Old is darker than the 10 and 12 Year Old expressions. Note that the 15 Year Old has had water added to bring the ABV down to 47% whereas the 12 Year Old is bottled without dilution at cask strength. The 12 Year Old would be lighter in colour if bottled at the same ABV as the 12 and 15 Year Old expressions.

Aroma: Notes of sweet apple and lightly smoked bacon. Water brings out more wood spices and some sherry.

Flavour: Smooth, oily mouthfeel that picks up spice as it warms in your mouth. Water calms the spice somewhat and reveals creamy vanilla and some chocolate maybe.

Finish: Medium length, with an initial wash of fresh sweetness, followed by a spicy fade that for me, appeared to encourage salivation. A great choice for a digestif perhaps?

Would I buy it again?

Yes, I would. Do I like it more than the similarly priced 12 Year Old Cask Strength? Hard to say. I think the 15 Year Old has a nicer finish but the 12 Year Old has more options for dilution and experimentation. The 12 Year Old also varies from batch to batch, meaning trying a new batch is like trying a new whisky. I am probably more likely to buy another bottle of the 12 Year Old before I buy the 15 Year Old again, but the 15 Year Old is a good benchmark to measure the other whiskies in the standard Springbank range against.

Disclaimer: I do not claim to have the nose and palate of a Master Sommelier, however, I am working to train my senses to better identify whisky aromas and flavours. Consider all my whisky 'Impressions' to be a work in progress and I hope to come back to each of them in the future to see if I notice anything different. Most importantly, I'm not just throwing around random aromas, flavours and adjectives for the hell of it; I am trying really hard to critically describe each whisky I taste - WhiskyDad.

Tasmanian Whisky Academy Intro to Distilling – Part Two

The first excursion on our Introduction to Distilling course, is to Moo Brew Brewery, owned by David Walsh of the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) fame. Moo Brew plays an integral part in many of Tasmania’s distilleries but what does a brewery have to do with a distillery? Quite a bit actually. Let’s start with a quick lesson on the whisky making process, which can be broken down into five distinct parts: Malting, Fermenting, Distilling, Ageing and Bottling.

Malting is the process of taking raw grain (barley in this case) and turning it into a product that can be easily fermented called Malt. Barley is harvested and cleaned, then steeped in water to cause the grain to germinate or sprout. Germination is a biological process where the grain prepares itself to grow into a new plant. Inside the grain, hard starches are unlocked and converted into soft starches to become an initial food source for the plant. These soft starches can be converted to sugars by plant enzymes within the grain. 

These sugars are important, because we want to use them to feed Yeast, a micro-organism that converts sugars to carbon dioxide and alcohol. The germination process must be interrupted at the ideal time in order to maximise sugar yields. This is done by heating and drying the malt in a kiln, also referred to a Kilning. This is also the time when a smoky character can be imparted onto the malt by burning aromatic fuel sources such as Peat, to introduce smoke into the kiln. Once dried, the malt is ground into pieces about one third the size of a full grain. The grain needs to be cracked open to access the sugars within, but not milled too much as to clog the machines in the following processes.

The next step is Fermentation, which is what Moo Brew Brewery does and why we visited the brewery. We were greeted at Moo Brew by Head Brewer, Dave Magil who took us into the delivery area first. The smell of cereal hits your nose as soon as you walk in like steam rising from a fresh bowl of warm porridge. Unmalted barley is hard and chewy and has a mild neutral flavour. Malted barley on the other hand is fragrant and crunchy with a sweet cereal flavour; quite tasty really, even in its natural state.

Malted barley is delivered to Moo Brew whole and is milled on site. The milled malt is then passed through into the brewery floor where it enters the Mash Tun and is mixed with hot (76˚C) water. The Mash Tun is simply a large mixer and this is when the plant enzymes convert the remaining soft starches to sugars. The Mash Tun’s job is to turn the milled barley into a sugar solution and the most important factor Dave tells us is to ensure all the malt gets wet.

You know how when you mix Milo with milk and you get those big clumps? If you bite into one, it’s full of dry powdered Milo. Well malt does the same thing and clumps together. Any malt that doesn’t get wet is wasted sugars so it’s important that the malt is mixed well in the Mash Tun to ensure it all comes into contact with the hot water and there are no clumps. 

The contents of the Mash Tun really is like a grainy and cloudy sweet hot porridge, but at this stage that is all it is, a grainy sugar solution. Next, the contents of the Mash Tun are pumped into a Lauder Tun, otherwise known as a Separation Tank. The purpose of this step is to separate the grain husks or Grist, from the sugar solution.

Inside the Lauder Tun, explains Dave, the grist floats on the surface and forms a natural filter bed. A hot water spray or Sparg, runs through the barley grist bed to separate the sugar solution from the grist. If the barley was not milled to the correct size, this natural filtering process would not work properly. 

The hot sugar solution, called Wort, collects inside the Fermenting Tank and must be cooled to 20˚C before it is ready to become a meal for yeast and undergo fermentation. Yeast is added to the wort and fermentation can take around a week for all the sugars to be converted. The final product after fermentation is a milky solution called Whisky Wash. Beer is made in a similar way, but whisky wash is un-hopped for example. The whisky wash is around 7% ABV and tastes different depending to what malt and yeast is used, but the Moo Brew whisky wash tasted a lot like a wheat beer such as Hoegaarden, although very cloudy in comparison. The finished whisky wash is pumped into large plastic containers ready for pickup by the customer distilleries.

Join me again for Part Three of this Introduction to Distilling feature when we follow the whisky wash to Sullivans Cove Distillery to be taken through the distilling, ageing and bottling processes by non-other than Sullivan’s Cove Head Distiller, Pat Maguire.

Laphroaig 18 Year Old Impressions

What is it? 

Distillery: Laphroaig, Islay, Scotland

Name: 18 Year Old

Make: Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Extra Info: The Laphroaig 18 Year Old single malt is no longer in production and has been replace by the new NAS (No Age Statement) Laphroaig Lore. I have tried the Laphroaig Lore, but not enough to write my own impressions just yet. Any bottles of the Laphroaig 18 Year Old that you see for sale are likely to be the last stock you are ever going to see. That makes this whisky a good choice for any whisky collectors or investors.

Why did I buy it?

The Laphroaig 10 Year Old was the whisky that got me into whisky, so trying the 18 Year Old was always on the cards. I figured I should probably buy some now, before it was too hard to find...Or too expensive to buy.

What did I think of it?

Presentation: Classic Scotch whisky bottle shape in the iconic Laphroaig dark green coloured glass. This expression has a two part label with the familiar black writing on white design on top and a dark green label with gold lettering below to match the neck covering. The symmetry and colouring of the bottle is quite appealing. Laphroaig, always classy. Bottled at 48% ABV.

Appearance: Just like the 10 and 18 Year Old Talisker single malts, side by side, the 10 Year Old and 18 Year Old Laphroaig are near indistinguishable by colour. Once again, this would be very unlikely without the use of e150 caramel colouring. 

Aroma: Softer smoke than the 10 Year Old, drift wood, spicy notes and some caramel.

Flavour: Smooth but powerful flavours. Spicy, familiar peat smoke, quite sweet, licorice all-sorts.

Finish: Very long, lingering spice, aniseed trailing off and warming in the throat.

Would I buy it again?

I bought two. I think it is unlikely I will buy another but more so because it is no longer available, not because I didn't like it. It is a decent single malt but just like the Talisker 18 Year Old, I prefer the Laphroaig 10 Year Old from a flavour-to-value standpoint.

Disclaimer: I do not claim to have the nose and palate of a Master Sommelier, however, I am working to train my senses to better identify whisky aromas and flavours. Consider all my whisky 'Impressions' to be a work in progress and I hope to come back to each of them in the future to see if I notice anything different. Most importantly, I'm not just throwing around random aromas, flavours and adjectives for the hell of it; I am trying really hard to critically describe each whisky I taste - WhiskyDad.

Talisker 18 Year Old Impressions

What is it? 

Distillery: Talisker, Isle of Skye, Scotland

Name: 18 Year Old

Make: Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Extra Info: Some claim the natural springs that provide the water used by Talisker add an extra dimension to the whisky's flavour because the water flows over peat, but this simply isn't true. Unburnt peat has surprisingly little aroma and only imparts the signature 'peak reek' when dried and burnt to produce heat and smoke that dries the damp malt.

Why did I buy it?

I bought this whisky because I enjoyed the Talisker 10 Year Old and wanted to compare it to the 18 year old single malt. It's important to note that this isn't just a Talisker 10 Year Old that has been aged an extra eight years. The age statement is only an indication of the youngest whisky contained within the bottle and is a mix of a variety of casks produced by the distillery. There may be a mix of whisky older than 18 years old within this bottle, but the youngest is guaranteed to be 18 years old, no matter what percentage of the final mix is of that age.

What did I think of it?

Presentation: Classic Scotch whisky bottle shape with a traditional style label just like the 10 Year Old expression but with gold highlights rather than dark blue. Presented in the same uncoloured glass bottle and also bottled at 45.8% ABV.

Appearance: Side by side, the 10 Year Old and 18 Year Old are near indistinguishable by colour and I think that is impossible without the use of e150 caramel colouring. Talisker obviously considers the bright gold colour of their whisky to be as important as any other distinguishing feature. Some people hate the idea of artificial colouring, personally, I would prefer it wasn't there (I don't think it is necessary) but I don't dismiss a whisky just because it is present - It is apparently flavourless after all.

Aroma: Delicate smoke and oak with something else, Fuji apple perhaps?

Flavour: Smooth entry, vanilla with building spice as it warms in the mouth.

Finish: Long, lingering peppery spice all over, but not the sudden pepper hit like with the 10 Year Old.

Would I buy it again?

No, but this is a good example of how a whisky changes as it ages. The older Talisker is less brash and more subtle than its younger sibling. The smoke is less obvious and thanks to longer interaction with the barrel, the oak and vanilla characteristics are more pronounced. The additional ageing time has also resulted in a spicier character, but with a smoother delivery. The Talisker 18 Year Old is not 'better' than the 10 Year Old because it is older, it is different. It is more expensive because it is more expensive to produce and to be honest, I prefer the Talisker 10 Year Old from a flavour-to-value standpoint. The Talisker 18 Year Old isn't getting any cheaper and I would recommend trying the Talisker 10 Year Old or one of the Talisker NAS (no-age-statement) expressions first if you have not already done so.

Disclaimer: I do not claim to have the nose and palate of a Master Sommelier, however, I am working to train my senses to better identify whisky aromas and flavours. Consider all my whisky 'Impressions' to be a work in progress and I hope to come back to each of them in the future to see if I notice anything different. Most importantly, I'm not just throwing around random aromas, flavours and adjectives for the hell of it; I am trying really hard to critically describe each whisky I taste - WhiskyDad.